Anticipation
had been building up for weeks. But it wasn’t too high. After all, it was only
a trip to Dubai. Having lived in Abu Dhabi, I had already been there enough
times to feel as if a trip to Dubai was the same as a trip to eat KFC at the
mall just down the road from where I live. Only fancier. There was still
anticipation though. This trip was to “the fish market” which sounded more
exciting; still Dubai though. I kept telling all my friends who had never heard
about Pehlwani that I was busy on Friday because I was going to go watch
Pakistani men wrestling in thongs with my theater class. I have to say, I got
less laughs than I expected.
At last the
day came and with it the two-hour long ride to get to Dubai when you aren’t in
a fast, 5 person vehicle. Same road as usual. Some buildings and trees. Then just
trees. Then sand. And then some buildings, but without the trees. That’s when
you know you are in Dubai. We drove through the city and after a bit the
skyscrapers began to dissipate. We weren’t going to downtown Dubai. We stopped
at a hotel for a toilet break; apparently the final “decent” stop before our
destination.
The bus took
off and drove for a few minutes and left us at the side of a sandlot that
seemed straight out of Sharjah (the emirate next to Dubai, which is often
mocked by people from Abu Dhabi and Dubai for being the less developed emirate
of the three). We were on the edge of the metropolis; only a few palm trees,
the road, and a small building that looked like a power plant surrounded the
place, with buildings in the further vicinity.
The place
was bustling with brown men dressed in shalwar kameez, although some of them
were wearing jeans and a T-shirt. On one rectangular space on one corner of the
larger sandlot, it seemed like three games of cricket were crammed into the
space of an indoors football court, and on the other corner people played
volleyball, although it also seemed like they were cramming their players to
fit on either side of the net. The place was lively, but it also felt hostile.
We weren’t tourists contributing to the Pakistani economy by visiting their
country. We were the privileged students
of NYUAD intruding in the space where these men, probably all workers, came to
have fun and escape the stress of their tough migrant life. There wasn’t the
slightest sense of danger, but we didn’t belong there.
In the larger
sandlot, there was a circle marked by stones (cement blocks, bricks, plain
rocks) which was wide enough to comfortably fit a troupe of thirty dancers.
Inside there was a small, circular, elevated patch of sand that was wide enough
to comfortably fit maybe only one. A middle-aged man in a shalwar kameez began spraying
water on it to make sure that the sand was moist. That was the ring, the arena
where in minutes two men would be struggling against each other for some sort
of glory. There were a few brown men – who could easily be distinguished from
the rest because of their bright western clothing and bigger bellies – who were
talking to people. Them and another white man, with a camera equipped with an
expensive looking lens, as well as ourselves were there, trying to document the
event.
As the
twilight began to settle I sat on one of the rocks that made up the big circle.
I was trying to fit in, by keeping a straight, very slightly scrunched up face,
and by sitting with my knees apart and the heels of my feet on the floor. It
was painful and it was futile, because my light blue hoodie and brown shorts
would never blend into this place. Without any sort of calling, only by the
presence of the man spraying water on the small circle, people began to
congregate around the big circle. Some sat on the rocks, others stood huddling
right behind. There were a few men that were likely to be the organizers of the
event. Somehow, they seemed wiser than the rest, an illusion created by old age
and a position of power. One of these men stood in the middle and began to shout
something in Urdu towards the side where the most audience had gathered. He
never bothered to turn around, so I could not see his face. But the event had
now started. Something was bound to happen. Anytime soon.
From behind
the circle three young men suddenly jumped out, fists in the air and on one leg,
asserting their presence with their loud voices. They weren’t dressed in any
way that was particularly different from the others. They were dancing. They
kicked their heels up right after the other and moved their fists up and down
like in the opening of Johnny Bravo. One of them was slim and sported sharp,
rectangular glasses. He looked like he had studied engineering, and I was
suddenly reminded that all these men could well be highly educated citizens, forced
to come work here to earn the money they need for their families back home. The
three men danced their way to the middle circle, where they stopped, touched
the ground, and remained silent for a moment, as if in prayer. They were
probably praying so that the fighter they were supporting would win.
This event reminded
me of the shows that boxers and MMA fighters often put up right before they
walk into the ring. With great energy, they fire up the audience and excite the
support that they need to win the match. Since nobody who looked like a fighter
came out after the silence came back to the circle, I was expecting another
show to come out as well. And indeed, coming from the other side of the circle
a single man screamed and danced his way into the circle for a prayer. I guess
not everyone can have the dedicated support of three people. The organizer man
kept saying some more stuff in Urdu, out of which I managed to make out the
word “pahlwan.” Now I could be sure somebody would start. While he spoke, it
was possible to catch a glimpse of a man behind the audience who was stripping
behind the audience and putting on a red thong over his underwear. A pahlwan; a
Pehlwani wrestler.
Around this time,
I could no longer bear the pain from my legs from sitting down in the position
I was, and in an effort to not look too foreign, I decided to stand with the
other Pakistani men. Some of my classmates told me I blended it quite well. I
from the moment the man next to me began eyeing my clothes while trying to
avoid my gaze that I still stood out. I decided to change my location in the
circle to escape the complaints of a couple of my classmates trying to get the
people with cameras to move out of the way so they could take good pictures and
maybe win themselves 100AED from the university. After I had moved the
organizer man once again began shouting something in Urdu. This time he faced
in the direction of where I had been sitting. It was not my day.
The
wrestlers finally went into the ring. The fit guy wearing a red thong and his
opponent - a less fit guy wearing a light blue thong with a pattern on it. The
two went into the circle and their heads connected. Held hands and after a sign
from the organizer, they both began to push. They struggled against each other
and for a moment the fit guy seemed like he was going to lose. His opponent had
managed to get a hold of his back and he lay on his knees, his torso curled
down, right next to the floor. They had strayed close to the edge of the
circle, and so the referee stopped the match. They both stood up, walked
towards the center of the circle. The fit guy went back on his knees and the
man in the blue thong went back on top of him, and after the referee spoke once
more, they began to struggle against each other once more. The fit guy pushed
his opponent and heaved his opponent of his back. One could feel the crowd
agitating, clapping and cheering. The man in the blue thong had been pushed
down and was on his back. He had lost. The two wrestlers went back into the
circle and stood side by side. The referee held their hands and lifted the hand
of the fit guy. People cheered.
The winner
then proceeded to go around the circle of the audience with his hands out and
people would give him some money. Mostly just coins, although some 5 or 10
dirham notes were pulled out. This was really the only reward he seemed to get.
The audience’s reaction to the winners was far from some intense cheering or
recognition by the community. Straight faces, although now peppered with smiles
and laughter, still dominated the circle of migrants. Not many people seemed
particularly excited or happy of the man’s victory. But one could feel the
satisfaction. The fit guy put on some stylish read and black sweatpants and for
the rest of the event lingered around, shirtless and proud.
After this
moment, the rest of the event seemed to be much less organized. More men came
into the circle, doing the same dance and with their voices equally high, made
their way into the circle and more men in thongs went in to fight. The inside
of the wide circle became a hodge-podge of prayers, sweat, and excited
photographers. At one point, during a fight, less than a meter away from the
action, a man had danced his way in and was in the middle of touching the floor
and praying, completely oblivious to the action occurring right next to him. I was probably more worried about him than he was of himself.
As the
fights progressed many things became apparent, both from the organization of
the event and the way the wrestlers fought.
The event,
even though run by a specific group of men who had the last say on who came
into the ring, was something the entire community there present was involved
in. At one point the men standing next to me began shouting so that one of the
organizers would come to where they were in the middle of a fight. When I asked
them what was happening, they feigned not being able to speak English and while
their inhospitable faces articulated something that sounded like “next Friday”
they pointed at another man right behind them who seemed younger and kinder
than them; and who was also much bigger. I deduced that they had just
registered their friend to take part in next week’s Pehlwani match.
The matches
got more interesting as they went on. The men would engage in the fight always
in the same way: foreheads touching and one hand holding the opponent’s hand. I
believe there was only one time that I saw them wish good luck to each other
before a match. But the crowd became more and more engaged in the battles as the
event went on. The brown and vicious sweaty bodies that pushed and turned in
the middle arena were playing as if they were playing cricket, like the men from
the smaller sandlot who kept batting the ball inside the Pehlwani ring. It was
intense and exciting, and one could clearly see more than just their muscles
being put to work. All their efforts were directed towards keeping their back
away from the ground. Even if it meant giving up an advantageous position, the
wrestlers would push up with their head and feet to arch their backs up,
because everyone knows that as soon as some sand sticks on their back, it’s
over. The fun is over, and the loser must take the walk of shame while the
winner gets to collect his prize money. The audience became more and more
excited with each fight, clapping and screaming and laughing and talking to
each other. I could feel people pushing behind me and smiling and chatting
while the tussle of wrestlers and cameras kept turning inside the ring. Then suddenly,
a battle ended without anyone’s back touching the sand. Everyone got up and
left. I asked, and I didn’t understand what I was told. But when I asked if it
was over, they said yes. It was time to go back to the world of straight faces
and foreign feelings.